Meaning of Name :
Suan Mokkhabalarama ("Garden of the power of liberation")
Address :
Amper Chaiya, Surat Thani 84110
Directions :
Suan Mokkh is about 640 km south of Bangkok and
just west of the Asian Highway (Hwy. 41); Surat
Thani, 53 km southeast, is the nearest city. From
Bangkok, take any southbound Rapid train and get
off at Chaiya, about 40 km north of Surat Thani's
Phun Phin station, then take a songtoew(mini-bus) to Suan
Mokkh. Air-conditioned buses in Bangkok leave
from the Southem AC Bus Terminal for the over-night
journey; regular buses depart mornings and
evenings from the Southern Bus Terminal; both
terminals are in Thonbunri. Take a bus bound for
Surat Thani or Nakhon Si Thammarat and ask to be
let off at Suan Mokkh; buses will either let you off
directly in front (KM post 71) or at the Shell station
I km north.
From the south, take trains that stop in Surat
Thani (Phun Phin) or Chaiya. At Phun Phin station,
ask at the bus stop in front for a bus going by Suan
Mokkh. (Phun Phin, Surat Thani's train station, is
14 km west of the city.) Buses from Surat Thani bus
station depart about hourly during the day.
THAI flies direct to Surat Thani from Bangkok,
Chiang Mai, Nakhon Si Thammarat, Phuket, and
Trang; the airport is 27 km south of Suan Mokkh
and 2 km west of the highway.
Meditation System :
Anapanasati (mindfulness with breathing) according
to the Buddha's Anapanasati Sutta. New students
first learn some theoretical background and
the purpose of Dhamma practice, then the
preparations for and the 16 lessons (objects of
investigation) which make up mindfulness with breathing.
Walking meditation is also done using mindfulness
with breathing; if one has difficulty doing this, one
can observe sensations in feet or legs. One practices
the first 4 lessons (the body foundation of mindfulness)
to calm one's breathing and body and to
stabilize the mind. Then one refines both the calmness
of the mind and one's understanding of how it
works by working with lessons 5-8 (the feelings
foundation of mindfulness) and 9-12 (the mind
foundation of mindfulness). At any time that the
mind is suffciently calm and stable, while practicing
with right understanding and motivation, insight
can take place, even during the first lessons.
Lessons 13-16 (the Dhamma foundation of mindfulness)
further develop and perfect insight into
right knowledge (vijja) and liberation (vimutti). The
goal of this practice is to realize the voidness-
emptiness of the 5 khandhas (body, feelings,
memory, thought, and sense awareness), that there
is nothing worth attachimg to as "I" or "mine",
To aid the development of right understanding
(samrnaditthi), the Buddha's teachings on anatta
(not-self) and pariccasamuppada (dependent
origination) are examined in detail and depth. The
study and investigation of these principles are
considered essential at Suan Mokkh.
Teaching Method :
Formal instruction is given only during monthly
10-day retreats; at other times interviews, books,
and tapes are available. Retreats feature Dhamma
talks, inteniews, group sittings, walking meditation,
and morning hatha yoga.
Teachers :
Ajahn Poh, abbot (Thai)
(Foreign monks and nuns do most of the English
teaching.)
Language :
English is the medium of instmction for foreigners.
Suan Mokkh Style :
The purpose of Dhamma practice here is to get free
of the tyranny of ego in order to live peacefully (in
realization of Nibbana) and usefully (in service to
Dhamma and humanity). Thus residents try to practice
unselfishness in everything they do meditation,
study, work, talk, sleep, amd whatever Iife asks.
Suan Mokkh is not a "meditation center" per se
where people come only to "meditate." This is a
Garden of Liberation, a place to study and practice
Dhamma in a wholistic way. Study and investigation
of Buddha-Dhamma given in the Pali suttas is
an essential foundation for practice. Joyful service
for others is the context of practice. Thus cultivating
Right Understanding amd Right Aspiration with
the path of samatha and vipassana becomes liberation
now. Each person integrates the tbree aspects
of study, service, and meditation in the way that
works for them. With growing mindfulness and
wisdom, temporary liberation blossoms into the
perfect voidness empty of "I" and "mine," full of
wisdom and peace.
Description :
Set on 300 rai (120 acres) of forest at the base of
Nang A Mountam. Group meetings take place outdoors
whenever possible. Two "ships" (one a meeting
hall, the other a rock garden) can be visited, but
the bot (uposatba) sits atop Golden Buddha Hill in
the center of the monastery. This natural open-air
setting under the trees probably resembles uposatha
areas used during the time of the Buddha. A
Spiritual Theatre, near the ships, has Buddhist
paintings from many traditions. Reproductions of
ancient Indian sculpture that depict the Buddha's
life decorate the outside walls of the theatre and are
scattered around the monastery grounds.
The International Dhamma Hermitage, 1.5
km east of Suan Mokkh, has been the site of meditation
retreats since 1989. Ten-day retreats in English
begin on the frst of every month (one must arrive
1-2 days in advance for registration). Thai retreats
take place mid-month of most months; retreats for
monks are held occasionally too. The 120-rai (48
acre) site has coconut palms and small trees with
many open areas.
A new forest monastery of about 70 rai (28 acres)
lies beyond the hermitage; foreign monks and laymen
come for very long-term study amd practice in
the Suan Mokkh tradition. English is the medium
of instruction.
Size :
monks: 40-70
novices: sometimes a few
nuns: 15-25
laypeople: 15-20 Thai, 15-25 foreign; (numbers
increase greatly during retreats and conferences)
Daily Routine :
Retreat schedules change through the ten-day
period according to the teachers, but wakeup time
is 4 a.m., breakfast 8 a.m., and lunch 12:30 p.m. A
typical schedule for meditators staying between
retreats is 4 am. wakeup; 5 a.m. meditation; 6 a.m.
yoga or other exercise (optional); 8 a.m. breakfast;
9 a.m. chores; 11:30 a.m. meditation; I p.m. Iunch;
4:30 p,m. meditation; 5:30 p.m. drinks; 7 p.m. tape
or talk; 8 p.m. meditation; 9 p.m. individual practice;
10 p.m. Iights out.
Retreat Information :
The 10-day retreats have been very popular. They
provide a unique opportunity to experience the
anapanasati technique in a retreat setting. (Most
other meditation centres in the Theravadan tradition
teach the vipassana system based on Mahasi
Sayadaw's techniques.) Retreats begin on the first
of every month; you must register in person a day or
2 in advance. Sometimes the 110-person capacity
of the retreat cannot accommodate everyone who
comes, hence the importance of coming beforehand.
Upon acceptance, one must follow instructions
given and be committed to staying the entire
10-day course. Late arrivals aren't possible.
Retreats take place at the Intemational Dhamma
Hermitage 1.5 km east across the highway from
Suan Mokkh.
Between Retreats :
Foreign visitors cannot be received easily at Suan
Mokkh when retreats are underway, so plan arrival
after the 11th of each month. Participation in
community activities is expected. One is encouraged to
practice in the Suan Mokkh style. Experienced
meditators who have done a retreat here before may
request pemmission for long-term stays.
Food :
Laypeople eat 2 vegetarian meals a day at a foreign
kitchen (at the hermitage during retreats, at Suan
Mokkh between retreats). Monks and novices eat
once or twice a day from food collected on pindabat
amd provided by the monks' kitchen (mostly non-vegetarian).
Accommodations :
During retreats at the International Dhamma Hermitage,
meditators have small individual rooms;
separate buildings for men and women. Bathing is
Thaj-style from tanks; toilets are Asian-style. Other
times visitors stay at Suan Mokkh; men have small
dormitory rooms; women stay in individual rooms
or dormitories; Thai-style bathing from tanks (most
men's areas are in the open); mostly Asian-style
toilets. Monks and novices stay in individual kutis
scattered through the forest or in monk's dormitories
if all kutis are occupied (they often are). Most
buildings and kutis have electricity.
Write in Advance? :
Don't. Retreat registration has to be done in person.
Ordination :
Can be arranged for men who have a serious
interest in ordaining and practicing in the Suan
Mokkh style. One should be committed to long-term
practice (at least 3 years). The training offered
takes about 10 years. Normally one trains initially
as a laymen for 3 months or more, then as a novice
for 6 months or more before full ordination. Ordination
ceremonies take place at another temple.
Other Information :
Although Suan Mokkh prefers not to make rules, it
is much appreciated when visitors dress and behave
within the rather conservative traditions of Thai
forest wats. Laypeople observe 5 precepts. A daily
charge of 50 baht (US $1.50) covers food and accommodation
expenses during and between retreats.
Buddhadasa Bhikkhu founded Suan Mokkh in B.E.2475
(1932) and moved it to its present location about 10
years later. He has sought to provide a natural
setting where visitors can forget "themselves" and
study, practice, and realize the Dhamma. His many
books, some translated into English, skilfully explain
anapanasati meditation and other aspects of
dhe Buddba's teaching.
The ''Evolution/Liberation'' newsletter comes
out once a year with articles and news; it's available
free by mail or at Suan Mokkh; donations support
publication and distribution. The foreign library at
Suan Mokkh has a variety of books on Buddhist and
related topics. Most are in English, though German,
French, and other languages are represented too.
Meaning of Name :
"Mountain cave monastry"
Address :
Wat Kow Tham, Koh Pha-Ngan, Surat Thani 84280.
Directions :
Koh Pha-Ngan, an idyllic island with many beaches,
Iies just north of Koh Samui in the Gulf of
Thailand. Daily boats connect the islands with each
other and direct to ferry terminals in the Surat Thani
area. Bangkok Airways has daily flights betweens
Bangkok and Koh Samui. Surat Thani has good
bus, train, and air connections with Bangkok and
other centers. On arrival at the pier in Thong Sala
on Koh Pha-Ngan, take a songtaew or taxi southeast
4 km to the junction for Wat Kow Tham, then turn
inland 1 km up a steep road to the wat.
Meditation System :
Vipassana similar to techniques taught by Mahasi
Sayadaw. Primary concentration development is
on the breathing and physical sensations; mental
noting helps focus on moment to moment awareness.
Teachers emphasize compassion as the basis
of mental development and meditation practice.
Compassion and loving kindness have a close
connection and receive much attention. Standing
meditation is taught as a formal practice along with
sitting and walking postures. Wise reflections are
encouraged on compassion-loving kindness,
sympathetic joy, how fortunate we are, karma, death,
dukkha, and impermanence.
Teaching Method :
During 10-day retreats, scheduled most months,
teachers present a short Dhamma talk in the
morning and a longer one in the evening. Further
instructions are given during individual interviews. The
teachers are often available for guidance between
retreats too. The retreat talks can be purchased in a
book and on audio tapes; people have found this
material useful as an introduction before attending
a retreat and a review afterward.
Teachers :
Steve Weissman (American)
Rosemary Weissman (Australian)
Language :
English; some German material is available.
Teachers also speak Thai.
Description :
Beautiful island setting near the south coast. The
wat covers 33 rai (13 acres) on a wooded hill; you
can gaze out across the water to Koh Samui and
other islands.
Size :
monks : 2-5
nuns : 4-6
laypeople : Steve and Rosemary Weissman are resident.
Daily Routine (On retreat) :
The day begins at 4 a.m. and is largely devoted to
periods of sitting, walking, and standing meditation.
A morning exercise session aids in developing
mindfulness of body and improving flexibility.
Teachers give morning and evening taIks. Every
ones is expected to keep noble silence and to follow
the schedule.
Dailry Routine (Between retreats) :
Guests are required to take part in 3 meditation
periods, a work time, and the meals.
Food :
Wholesome Thai vegetarian. The kitchen serves 2
meals in the morning. A light dinner in the afternoon
is also available during retreats; hot drinks are
served in the afternoon between retreats. Some
nonvegetarian food may be served between
retreats.
Accommodations :
Simple dormitoriesand some shared rooms; Thai
style bathrooms have running water. Buildings
have electricity.
Write in Advances? :
A good idea to obtain retreat dates and registration
information. Also, the wat closes occasionally
when monastic retreat take place. Mail can be slow
and unreliable, so it's best to visit in person in
advance of your intended stay.
Ordination :
Not available.
Other Infomation :
Ten-day intensive retreats take place most months.
They usually begin about midmonth (dates vary).
The 40-persons retreat capacity sometimes fills, so
it's a good idea to preregister by mail or in person.
A 90 baht (US $3.60) daily fee covers food
expenses. Teaching and monastry facilities are offered
freely.
Visitors are usually welcome to practice
meditation here between retreats too. A simplified
schedule, is followed with more freedom for one to
organize one's own time. Teachers may not be
available, however. Note that the wat closes
occasionally.
A Thai nun, Maechee Ah Mohn Pahn, is in charge
of the center (nuns rarely have such a position in
Thailand). She speaks English but does not teach
the foreigners.
AN ADDITIONAL MONASTERY IN THE SOUTH
Wat Tham Sua
Language and accommodations are the main difficulties for foreigners.
The teacher doesn't speak English, nor can you expect to find anyone who
can translate. You may be able to stay here, but space is tight. The author
found the teacher friendly and very approachable, but other temple residents
to be indifferent to visitors. (The wat may get too many tourists for
the comfort of the monks and nuns.) A day visit is recommended for one
who can speak fluent Thai (or can bring a translator along). From Krabi,
go north 6 km to the Talaat Kao junction, east 8 km on Hwy. 4 (toward
Hat Yai), then 2 km north to the wat. Songtaew and local buses will take
you to the turnoff, where you can walk or take a motorcycle taxi. A
songtaew could also be hired direct to the wat. Any bus betveen Hat Yai
(or Trang) and Krabi will pass by the wat turnoff.