Wat Maha That

Address :
Tha-Phrachan, Bangkok 10200. Tel.(02) 2226011, 2224981.

Meditation System :
Vipassana using techniques similar to those taught by Mahasi Sayadaw. Base on Four Foundations of Mindfulness described in the Maha Satipatthana Sutta. Concentration is developed on the rise and fall of the abdomen, then awareness is directed to physical and mental sensations.

Teaching Method :
Individual daily interviews. Weekly lectures in Thai (usally on Sunday). Most meditation instruction and practice take place in Section 5

Language :
Teachers and some assistants in Section 5 can speak a little English, though instruction is normally given in Thai. If no one speaks English when you visit, ask at the Dhamma Vicaya Hall.

Description :
Large, busy temple of 20 acres. Founded in the 18th century, Wat Maha That serves as an important center for Thai Buddhism. Many of the monks attend Mahachulalongkorn (Buddhist University) here. Crowds of worshippers visit the various viharns, shrines, chedis, and Buddha images on the grounds. Monks in the Dhamma Vicaya Hall sometimes speak English and can answer questions; scheduled talks are given here. Meditation takes place in Section 5; you're welcome to join in on the group sitting and walking sessions.

Daily Routine :
In Section 5; 6:30 a.m. breakfast; 7-11 a.m. morning chanting (about 30 min.) and sitting walking group meditation ; 11:30 a.m. lunch; 1-4 p.m. sitting and walking group meditation; 4 p.m. drinks; 6-8 or 9 p.m. evening chanting (about 1 hour) and sitting and walking group meditation.

Food :
Good quality and variety. A simple breakfast in early morning, then the main meal in late morning; drinks are served in the afternoon. Meditators can also arrange for food, including vegetarian, to be delivered from shops.

Accommodations :
Laypeople usually stay in dormitories, seperate for men and women; conditions tend to be crowded. Monks, novices, and some laymen have individual rooms. Electricity and running water. Bathing is from jars or showers; Asian-style toilets.

Write in Advance? :
Not necessary.

Other Information :
Laypeople follow 8 precepts and normally wear white clothing. Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University bookstore, facing the street on the north side of the Wat, has some English books on Buddhism; other Buddhist bookstores are on the same street.


Wat Bovornives Vihara

Address :
246 Phra Sumen Rd., Banglampoo, Bangkok 10200. Tel.(02)2800869, (02)2812831-3

Meditation System :
No formal teachings or meditation instructions are currently offered. The teacher is very busy with duties. This temple is mentioned because it's an important centre for Thai Buddhism University. Usually a few foreign monks are in residence who can answer questions.

Teacher :
His Holiness Somdet Phra Nyansamvara, the Supreme Patriarch of Thailand.

Description :
12.5 acres in an urban setting with some trees and a few open spaces. Small canals criss-cross the grounds. Some of the buildings have notable Thai or European architecture. The Great Chedi, glittering with gold-colored tiles, towers more than 50 meters; relics of the Buddha lie inside within a small metal chedi. If you're here on a Sunday afternoon, you can visit the Dhamma Museum in the tall building near the street; exhibits include Buddha images, temple paraphenalia, skeletons and other meditation objects, and "cremation books" (given out on cremation occasions). Resident monks engage primarily in Dhamma studies; Mahamakut Rajavidyalaya Buddhist University is on the east end of the grounds.

Accommodations :
Not generally available or recommended for meditators.

Ordination :
Foreigners occasionally ordain here but few stay; contact the secretary for details.

Other Information :
A small foreign library is available. Mahamakut bookstore, on Phra Sumen across from the Wat, has many Buddhist books in English; publishers represented include Buddhist Publication Society, Pali Text Society, and Mahamakut Rajavidyalaya Press; closed Sunday.
The temple's history dates to about B.E.2369 (1826), when founded as Wat Mai, but the current name and prestige came about in B.E.2380 (1837). In that year King Rama III made the bhikkhu Prince Mongkut the abbot, awarded him the title "deputy KIng", and changed the temple's name to Wat Bovornives. Prince Mongkut had ordained in B.E.2367(1824) and applied himself to study of Pali language and the Buddhist texts. After Prince Mongkut left the Sangha in B.E.2394 (1851) to become King Rama IV, he expressed the wish that his sons who wished to ordain would do so at Wat Bovornives. His wish was fulfilled and many members of the royal family have done so down to the present.


Wat Pak Nam

Address :
Therdthai Rd., Amper Phasichareon, Bangkok 10160. Tel. (02)467-0811.
Located west across the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, part of metropolitan Bangkok. Easily reached by city buses #4, 9, or 103. If you don't mind some spray, you can take a long-tailed boat to the Wat from Rajinee and Saphan Phut jetties north of the Memorial Brige on the east side of the Chao Phraya river.

Meditation System :
The technique begins by concentrating on a point inside the body in the center of the abdomen, 2 finger-widths above the navel. This point is said to be the place where consciousness has its seat. The words "Samma Arahan" can be repeated mentally to aid initial development of concentration. A luminous nucleus appears at the center point, then develops into a still and translucent sphere about 2 cm in diameter. Within the sphere appears another nucleus which emerges into a sphere. The process continues with increasingly refined spheres or forms appearing in succession. The high levels of concentration achieved are used in vipassana to develop penetrating insight. A qualified teacher is important in this practice. The late abbot Ven. Chao Khun Mongkol-Thepmuni popularized this meditation system. The wat has a book in English, Samma Samadhi by T. magness, that explains the technique in detail.

Teaching Method :
Individual interviews as needed. Talks in Thai by a monk or a tape recording of Ven. Chao Khun Mongkol-Thepmuni are given 2 or 3 times a day at group sittings in the meditation hall.

Description :
The bot and many large, multi-story buildings are tightly packed on the 7 acres grounds. Urban setting, Large crowds of worshippers come on weekends and Buddhist holidays. The wat dates back to the early 18th century in the Ayuthaya Period.

Daily Routine :
Meditators can practice individually or attend group sessions.

Food :
Good quality and variety; offered in the temple at daybreak and 11 a.m. Monks and novices can go on pindabat if they wish. Laypeople eat after monks and novices.

Accommodations :
Monks and novices usually stay in individual rooms, some with attached Thai- or western-style bathrooms. Nuns have shared rooms. Laypeople may be able to stay except during the Rains Retreat.

Write in Advance? :
Not necessary.

Ordination :
Men spend a minimum of one month as a layman, then 3 months as a novice before full ordination as a monk. Women can request maechee ordination, though no westerners have done so.

Other Information :
Ven. Chao Khun Mongkol-Thepmuni revived this system of meditation, sometimes call "Dhammakaya". He's very highly venerated by the Thais. A shrine room in the wat contains his coffin and a life-like wax statue. Laypeople practicing meditation normally follow 8 precepts and wear white clothing; visitors staying a week or two can follow 5 precepts and wear regular clothing.